A Mile A Day #6: Hey Sky, Why So Pushy?

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hornsea sea front

I took a long walk along the beach with the dog today, and the sky pushed me over.

It roared and shrieked and howled, great gusts of meteorological rage out of a clear blue sky, and eventually I was flung off the sea wall (don’t worry, it’s only 2 feet high) and lay there on my back, on the sand, staring up into the blue while Kai barked at me.

Britain has exciting weather. If you’re into weather, Britain is a treat. Quite a lot of it includes rain, but sometimes you get beautiful days like today, with endless blue skies that make the heart sing, and icy winds that instantly flay the skin from your body and scatter your sad, tattered remains across the beaches of either Norway or Ireland, depending on which direction the wind is (savagely) blowing.

So for the second day in a row I lay on the ground, and considered what the world was trying to tell me.

Was it saying, Move to southern Spain, Mike? Yes it was. But that’s not relevant to this story.

I stared at the clouds racing overhead.

Ah. I see. Of course.

I challenge you to go out on the next really windy day and tell me what’s actually happening above your head.

You’ve probably picked up a bit of knowledge from TV weather reports: highs, lows, fronts, the Gulf Stream (or whatever great oceanic current is mucking around with your country’s weather systems), those big arrows pointing everywhere so dramatically on your TV news weather map.

But be honest – it’s all absolutely useless when you’re outside. Wind is invisible. You can lick a finger and work out which direction it’s coming from, but – what exactly does that mean? And how do you actually read the wind?

I had absolutely no idea, so I picked myself up and came home to find out.

Hornsea sea front

There are two types of wind you’ll encounter when you go for a walk, says Tristan Gooley in The Walker’s Guide To Outdoor Clues And Signs.

First, you need to learn your local winds. These are the steady, stiff breezes and great rushing exhalations that spring up whenever the sun warms the land. Inland air heats up and rises – and cold air rushes in from elsewhere to fill the void. Yes, that’s wind in a nutshell – but local winds change quickly, sometimes changing directions multiple times every day.

Sea breezes spring up in the morning because the shoreline warms quicker than the sea, sending cold air rushing inland – and in the evening, the exact reverse happens.

If you’re near mountains, you’ll be buffeted by a splendidly-named katabatic wind (“katabatic” sounds like a brand of washing powder for Klingons, but it’s actually from the Greek word for “descending”). High cold air will roar down on you as you climb your mountain in the morning, and warmer air (anabatic) will try to prevent you from coming down off it towards sunset. It’s a perfectly frustrating setup. If katabatic winds were people, you’d block them on Facebook.

Next, you learn your weather winds. These are the great monstrous currents of the air so beloved by weather reports, and they operate on two levels – high and low. High weather winds tend to tug low weather winds along, like parents tugging errant children – but, usefully for walkers,  they don’t always go in the same direction. (Sometimes, the children rebel.)

And that’s how you can read the wind.

Imagine for a second that you’re stood with the (lower) wind at your back – and you’re pretty sure it’s not a local wind.

If you’re in the northern hemisphere, wind systems will rotate in an anticlockwise fashion. (For those of you in the southern hemisphere, it’s clockwise.) Weather winds will circle areas of low pressure. So if you’re north of the equator, standing with the wind at your back, point vaguely to the left – you’re now pointing roughly at where that low pressure point is.

Now – look at the direction the highest clouds are going, ie. the direction the high weather winds are blowing.

  • If they’re going to your right, then warm air is advancing – and consequently, clouds will form and the chances of being rained on later today are unfortunately pretty high. Well, damn.
  • If they’re going to your left, the wind is cold air, seeking out that point of low pressure in the distance – and the skies are probably going to clear (or remain clear). Yay!
  • And if they’re going the same direction as the wind at your back, well, you’re stuck with the weather you have right now. Congratulations / I’m so sorry!

I suspect this won’t always work, but most days, it’s apparently pretty reliable.

You can find more nature-reading tips at Tristan’s website, The Natural Navigator – and the book’s a treat. It won’t be the last time I plunder it for advice as I write this series.

(Also, fun fact: I searched on Google for tips on “reading the wind” – and every entry on the first page was about shooting guns more accurately. Ah, modern life.)


PREVIOUSLY: A Mile A Day #5 – Face Down In The Mud (And Loving It)

NEXT: A Mile A Day #7 – Cleaning My Boots Like A Loser


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A Mile A Day #5: Face Down In The Mud (And Loving It)

MikeachimThe Everyday2 Comments

This morning, I nearly dozed off in a muddy puddle.

Oh, I was fine. It was cold, but I was wrapped up in lots of layers, warm as toast. (Is there a more British phrase? I doubt it.)

I lay there comfortably, one knee blathered in mud, my face shoved in a clump of grass. In a way it’s now difficult to articulate, I was perfectly happy. It was fun – the same way sitting on the floor is sometimes fun, even if there’s a good chair available.

It was peaceful down here. Yes – I was at peace.

No reason to move just yet. Nope.

I listened to the birds, I enjoyed the feeling of the wan winter sun on my back…

Life felt good. I was enjoying the moment!

Mmm. Moment.

And then I shook myself.

No, Mike – you’re lying in a puddle in a field in Yorkshire in January like the silliest of silly buggers. Get up, man. What on earth are you doing? Just imagine if someone found you like this. Imagine explaining it! You’d have to make something up. “Oh hi! I’m testing out the thermal properties of these walking trousers. It’s a review for Outside Magazine.”

No. Stop. Really. Just get up.

In fact, I was running a test of sorts. I deliberately stayed up all night, watching Netflix until 5am (Hannibal – guaranteed to keep you awake) so I could go for a walk on just two hours of sleep, and write about the effect it had on my senses and my mood.

And I only really found out when I stepped in a muddy tractor rut and fell over.

Long-term sleep deprivation is astonishingly bad for your health. It’s a menace. If chronic sleep debt was a drug, it’d be banned, and you’d be arrested for carrying it.

If you incur a sleep debt, your body starts to fall apart at a terrifying rate. Worse, most people don’t understand what “sleep debt” actually means. If you get 3 hours of sleep every night for five weekdays and sleep in for a delicious 10 hours on Saturday, you are not “caught up”. You’ve just made yourself unaware of those other 10 hours of sleep you’re behind with. Those missing hours will continue to attack you, gnawing great holes in you. You’re walking around with an invisible sucking gunshot wound, and most of your health will leak right out of it.

Unfortunately, chronic sleep debt is everyone’s problem these days.

But in the short term, it’s sometimes a necessary evil – especially for walkers. If you only have the weekend free, and you’re getting up at 2am on Saturday so you can hit the hills at sunrise, of course you’re going to miss sleep. You might as well complain that swimming makes you wet. So you grit your teeth, enjoy the weird, floaty feeling of not having had enough sleep (demonstrably worse than the effects of alcohol), you make sure you’re safe, and you try to avoid doing anything daft that day.

Like, say, falling over and nearly dozing off in a muddy puddle. That kind of daft.

I said “necessary evil” – and that’s what I’ve always believed. Sleep deprivation is manageable, but there are no real benefits to doing it (unless you’re after a legal, safe version of taking mind-altering drugs, I guess).

But then I read this, via Cody Lundin’s 98.6 Degrees: Keeping Your Ass Alive:

Sleep deprivation is a quick and efficient way to treat depression. It works 60 to 70 percent of the time—far better than existing drugs—but the mood boost usually lasts only until the patient falls asleep.

Doctors have been pushing the health benefits of the great outdoors for decades, but it’s usually something to do with the body, not the mind. The effects of nature on the brain are starting to come to light – this is a great overview – but depression? That’s a new one for me – even if it does make sense. For years, whenever I’ve been hit with Black Dog (my family’s name for depressive moods), I’ve felt compelled to walk it off, and when I did so, I felt better. No bad mood could survive a four-hour trek at a brisk pace.

Well, it turns out there’s science. And the science is exciting.

So if life is dragging your mood to the floor, deliberately get too little sleep, put your boots on and go for a walk.

If emotional trauma hits, get too little sleep, put your boots on and go for a walk.

If you’re at your wit’s end and everything feels impossible and pointless, get up at the crack of dawn, stumble into your boots, grab a water bottle, and walk and walk until the mud is thick around your ankles and the breath is whooshing in and out of you, and your cheeks are pink and your knees are wobbly. Doesn’t matter where you go. It only matters that you go.

Oh, and if you do fall over along the way – take a moment and enjoy it.

(Just don’t tell anyone. They’ll think you’re a bit weird.)


PREVIOUSLY: A Mile A Day #4 – Seeing From Scratch

NEXT: A Mile A Day #6 – Why Sky, Why So Pushy?


 Images: Mike Sowden, Pixabay

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A Mile A Day #4: Seeing From Scratch

MikeachimThe Everyday9 Comments

The path stretches out in front of me, and I pretend I know nothing about it.

It’s a difficult lie, this not-knowing thing. I’ve walked up and down this particular path hundreds of times. It connects to the hometown of my childhood to the city I retook my A-levels in as an adult, preparing for a career in Archaeology. My feet know it better than almost anywhere else round here. I could probably close my eyes and imagine three quarters of this 15-mile route.

But that’s not the game I’m playing today.

There are two reasons I’m doing this mile-a-day challenge this year.

The first is to turn this style of writing into a habit again. (I’m a lapsed travel writer, with “travel writer” next to my name all over the Web. The shame, it burns.)

The other reason is related to the first: when you’re not writing like this regularly, you lose the skills this kind of writing relies upon, primarily the ability to see things. When I go walking I’m not as aware as I used to be – or, to use the more popular phrase, I’m not as mindful.

Mindfulness is all the rage right now. The New York Times is obsessed with it: just look at the results of this Google search (all articles are from 2016). It’s often used to mean “being aware of your deepest feelings,” but the dictionary definition is simpler: “the quality or state of being conscious or aware of something.

In my case, what I feel unaware of is everything outside my door. I feel blunted to the joys (and horrors) of nature, like a knife that won’t even cut cheese anymore. There is a wall between me and what I’m looking at, and that wall is more Me.

That’s why I’m here, walking down a path in waterproofs with the rain hissing against my back. I’m trying to learn how to decipher the world again – by playing an incredibly stupid game.

The game is simple – and it relies on stupidity. Specifically, mine. I have to pretend I’m perfectly, boundlessly ignorant of everything I’m looking at.

So, here we go. What am I looking at?

This path is long and straight, and bounded on both sides by impressively huge trees and hedgerows. It’s clearly been around for more than a few decades. Who made this? Did it always look like this? Who looks after it now?

It was clearly a big deal at some point, this seemingly modest, never-meandering walkway, because there’s a whacking great bridge over the top of it.

This bridge is weird. Why did they build a bridge that substantial over this path? Why not take the cheaper option of sending the road straight over the path and getting the pedestrians to walk across the road?

What on earth made people on foot more important than cars?

It’s hard, this enforced ignorance. I know the answers, but I’m not allowed to acknowledge them. No cheating.

Aha! Half a mile further, I find a line of black grit by the side of the path, a trace of what’s under this tarmac. That’s a good clue, that is. It’s hard to ignore what it’s telling me. I grit my teeth and do it anyway.

But ten minutes later, a door and a concrete ramp give it all away.

Look at that green door on the side of that house.

No architect in their right mind would stick a door next to a window like that – so that door is a new feature, or that window is. (Or, their architect was an actual lunatic! But let’s think nice thoughts here.)

Underneath the door is a concrete slope with railings, now used as a hard-standing for parking their car. It’s paved: great grey stones hanging slightly over the edge.

There’s no reason for this ramp except the obvious – and this is where the pretend-ignorant version of me would finally put the pieces together.

It’s a train platform, of course. I’m on an abandoned railway line, converted into a path for walkers. Not just any path, though – it’s now part of the Trans Pennine Trail, and a fair bit of money has been laid down to make this a smooth, accessible and yeah, rather more boring walking experience than you’d have enjoyed after the rails were hauled up in the early 1970s, leaving ash and coal dust . . . and a number of abandoned village stations, with buildings too sturdy to just knock down – just perfect for renovation.

(Although, you might have to stick a new door or a window in here and there – if you can find a builder who’s mad enough.)

I’d never have seen that door if I wasn’t actually looking.

Thanks, stupid game. You’ve sharpened me nicely.


PREVIOUSLY: A Mile A Day #3 – What’s Inside My Dog?

NEXT: A Mile A Day #5 – Face Down In The Mud (And Loving It)


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A Mile A Day #3: What’s Inside My Dog?

MikeachimThe Everyday2 Comments

happy dog

Do dogs worry?

I keep one eye on my mum’s dog, Kai, as we go for a walk through town and around the park. What is he looking at? Does he ever stop looking at things and fret about the past or future, like we apes do?

Does he think things like:

I bet it’ll be bloody dog food for dinner again.

I chase the stick; I grab the stick; I come back. But what’s the point, ultimately? And what if all the sticks run out? OMG no no no. I can’t run after nothing.

I wish I’d run after that cat faster in 2014. No idea what I would have done with it if I’d caught it, but – should have run faster. Dammit. Bet it’s still out there, laughing at me.

What mark am I leaving on the world? Well, apart from that one I left over there….oh no, he’s picking it up with one of those little bags again, thanks for making me look like I can’t bury my own poo. SO EMBARRASSING. Oh, he has a biscuit, he’s forgiven.

Dogs seem to be imaginative. If you open a door in front of a dog, it’ll watch you do it, imagine itself doing it, and have a go itself when you’re not looking. Try this with a wild canine, say, a wolf, and it’ll ignore you, then try to work out how doors work for itself.* Domesticated dogs have lost this ability to puzzle-solve because they’ve discovered magical tools for unlocking the secrets of the modern world, called “humans”. Life is easy: just use humans!

But do they worry? They certainly get anxious, sometimes even depressed. But Kai seems so present – sniffing at things, cocking his ears at every sound, jerking this way and that on the leash as he follows invisible contrails of smell through the cold January air. Even anxiety and depression could still be interpreted as “staying entirely in the present” – if you’re fed up right now, they’ll respond accordingly.

So no, they don’t seem to worry.  Consequently, no challenge is too great for a dog.

We have even made a word about it, “dogged“: having or showing tenacity and grim persistence.

dog in field

Is a healthy imagination an asset or a burden when you’re taking on a big, scary challenge?

At various points of my life, my imagination has turned me into a hero and a coward. There’s a life-affirming thrill from tackling something that’s way, way bigger than you are. There’s also the moment when all the doom-laden scenarios in your head take control and you collapse into a weak, self-disgusted heap. The better your imagination, the more real those possible futures feel, and the more jelly-like your knees become.

But – what about imagining embarrassment, shame and self-recrimination as a counter-balance? What about empathy with your future self? Because THAT stuff gets you up on your feet and moving again.

So maybe humans lack a dog’s doggedness, but we can also use our ability to jump forward in time to motivate us in a constructive manner – even if it means scaring ourselves so much that it cancels out the lesser terror of mortal fear. Yes, tenacity is a real shitshow for the soul.

However, nothing beats our ability to be motivated by the past.

I don’t know how much Kai can remember what he’s done, but the times I’ve gritted my teeth and done something and found it was achievable – they’re an amazing asset for my future adventures. For humans, nothing beats experience. And sometimes, what keeps me walking onwards when I’m really, really tired and the rain’s coming down and I just want it to end . . . is knowing that someday, I’ll be able to use the memory of it to attempt something better.

Go there, and do that, so you’ve been there and done that.

You’ll thank yourself later.

* I’m reading two utterly fascinating books on dog psychology: Inside Of A Dog by Alexandra Horowitz, and The Philosopher And The Wolf by Mark Rowlands. They’re less about how to bring up a dog, and more about what you can learn by being a bit more dog/wolf-like in your approach to life. Recommended.


PREVIOUSLY: A Mile A Day #2 – Travelling Without Moving

NEXT: A Mile A Day #4 – Seeing From Scratch


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A Mile A Day #2: Travelling Without Moving

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escalator

I’m in London, on a conveyor belt filled with zombies.

Nobody looks excited on an escalator. The standard expression on everyone’s faces seems to be “trying to reconnect – please hold” – somewhere between boredom and sensory confusion, as you discover that keeping your balance requires effort and you’ve actually forgotten how to do that. Everyone has furrowed brows and distant looks. If you look at anything except the metal step in front of you, you’ll get dizzy, sway and clutch the rubber handrail in terror.

Nobody looks around. Everyone’s an island.

Escalators are practical and ingenious. They also terrify like nobody’s business. Escalaphobia is a common fear in the modern world (and for anyone who suffers from it, please don’t click this) – but escalators are dull, not dangerous. Millions of people use them every day – London’s Canary Wharf Underground Station squeezes 20,000 people up and down 23 escalators every hour. They’re a blessing to knackered, cranky commuters needing to turn their legs and their brains off for a minute. On paper, they make perfect sense.

The one that spat me out into London St Pancras International was fast, efficient and perfectly boring. It surgically extracted 120 seconds from my life and a day later, I can’t see the scar. You’d think escalators would be a great advertising opportunity with a captive audience, but when I looked back down, nobody was looking at the walls. Nobody was looking at anything. Hardly anyone was moving. That was the weirdest thing. It was like a production-line in a factory that makes statues.

A lot of modern travel involves being frozen in place, as Rebecca Solnit notes here:

“Perhaps walking should be called movement, not travel, for one can walk in circles or travel around the world immobilized in a seat, and a certain kind of wanderlust can only be assuaged by the acts of the body itself in motion, not the motion of the car, boat or plane.”

Wanderlust: A History Of Walking, Rebecca Solnit (2001)

I’ll spend the whole of that day travelling without moving – through the Underground, on a train, on a Megabus, on an East Yorkshire Services bus. Each time I assemble my things, settle in, peer out the window and fall into a dull-thoughted stupor. Ah, the dream of modern travel.

And since it all started with that escalator, it’d be easy to blame it.

In excess, escalators and elevators are crappy for your health, compared with taking the stairs. Of course, that kind of advice is really easy to ignore when you’re tired or fed up, so most of us are probably better off having stairs forced upon us in well-meaning acts of sadism.

But the world likes escalators. They’re kind to those who can’t take the stairs, and great for those too weary or lazy to take the stairs, and they’re only going to get longer – like this 688-metre monster in China.

So as with all modern tech, it’s up to us to decide how we use them.

When I’m not laden with enough luggage to break the axle of a Humvee, I use what I call Sowden’s Rule Of Earned Convenience, which favours novelty over comfort:

Where there’s a harder, longer, sweatier option available, you have to do that first, to earn the right to take the easier alternative.

I’ve been following this rule for about ten years even though I haven’t fully articulated it until recently. I’ve taken multiple walks across town while moving house, shouldering a backbreaking amount of my possessions, because using a bus or taxi first would have felt like cheating. I could do that later, but not first. When asked, I’d struggled to explain this. My friends looked at me like I was an idiot, and since I couldn’t explain it, I assumed they were right.

I’ve got off the bus early when going somewhere new, so I could introduce myself to it properly, honestly, the clumsy, deliberately humble way that covered me with mud and made my feet hurt. Staying with friends in Luxembourg this November, I was utterly delighted to miss the bus home, because it meant I could walk along the side of a very boring-looking road and find out if it was truly that boring and skippable. In doing so, I discovered this terrifyingly-looking abandoned property:

abandoned house

(Apparently it used to be a kindergarten. Insert comment about Luxembourgish parenting here.)

It’s not just misery-loving masochism to want to do it the hard way. There’s that weird sense of having earned something. Seasoned adventurers hear the call of it. It’s partly why people drag on lycra and go for a run in freezing January rain. They’re not just idiots. There’s something else at work as well – and it’s good for the soul, and for your awareness of the world around you.

So, just occasionally, try taking the long way round…

And then relax, because you’ve damn well earned it.


PREVIOUSLY: A Mile A Day #1 – I’d Rather Walk, Thanks
NEXT: A Mile A Day #3 – What’s Inside My Dog?


 IMAGES: MIKE SOWDEN, PIXABAY

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A Hiker’s Guide To (Not Quite) Drinking Whisky

MikeachimThe Everyday1 Comment

Sycamore Gap, Hadrian's Wall

Fun fact! This post was sponsored by a well-known whisky brand. After the campaign ended, they asked me to remove the post and mentions of their brand, which made me sad because I thought they liked my writing, not the links. Ah well. Marketing. Anyway! This is my only directly sponsored post I’ve ever done. They paid me well, and it was fun to write, especially because they let me write what I wanted. Sometimes this sponsored thing isn’t so bad. Kinda.Read More